Hong Kong

Dec. 8

We got to Hong Kong about dark, after 15 hours from Los Angeles. The whole trip was in daylight -- a circle route - up along mainland US coast, Canada, Alaska, then arcing down parallel to Siberia, N. China coast, then, I think, N island of Japan and on down to HK. Most of the way was cloud-covered, but one time I happened to raise window shade and look out and I could see snow-covered land and large river running through it. Japan, I think, but I couldn't get TV screen to show current position to be sure.

At any rate, we bused into the downtown Kowloon section of HK to find it, somewhat surprisingly, all decked out in Christmas displays and christmas carols playing over loudspeakers.

Hong Kong, which the British turned over to China in 1997, may belong to China, but is still separate in many ways. They've got their own curency and their own electrical connections (I brought adapter plugs based on what instructions said China required, but didn't notice Hong Kong had a separate listing and plug design -- housekeeping fixed me up, though.) Our tour guide (Sat. pm) kept referring to "when you go to China." In Hong Kong they drive British-style, on the left; in (real) China, at least in Changsha which is all we've seen of the rest of the country, they drive on right.

When China took over, our guide said he moved to Toronto -- for three weeks; came back because it was too cold there. He says he sees little effect of political change. Said Hong Kong residents care more about their economic health -- how much their property is worth -- than governing political systems, and of course Hong Kong's government and economic system is adapted to their history and different from that of mainland China. The treaty with the British assured this autonomy. 'One country, two systems' is the slogan. Biggest economic disruption in his memory was the SARS outbreak around 2001.

HK is very densely populated: 7M people in 472 sq. miles. So, there are high-rise apartment buildings everywhere, some luxurious, some shabby. Guide, his wife, and mother-in-law live in 521 sq. ft. apartment; he doesn't have a car -- too expensive and inconvenient. Around US$1200/month to register and park a car. Gas costs US$7.50/gal. About one in 20 residents have a car. Mass transit carries about 11M riders a day.

Saturday, Dec. 9

Geographically, HK starts on the north with the New Territories, then below that, Kowloon, both on the mainland. Then, across Victoria Harbor to HK Island. We walked through downtown Kowloon absorbing sights and sounds -- everybody wants to sell you a suit or at least some nice shirts -- then the Kowloon side of the harbor. Very hazy day so HK skyscrapers didn't stand out very well. Not sure the mix of haze and smog. It's a very busy harbor with ferries, commercial boats, and other vessels criss-crossing.

Next was a dim sum lunch for the whole group followed by bus tour. We got full deal. Started at Victoria peak, about 1300 ft. high on HK Island. On the way up we passed the "last Chinese house on the island" belonging, our guide said, to his grandfather -- but don't knock on the door, he's out of town.

At the top, we went up in the unusual building below to look down at the city through the haze. (I'm finding it's not easy moving pictures around in Blogger, so I can't cut and paste where I want. One time I deleted one picture and they all disappeared, and there doesn't seem to be an "undo" way to get them back.)

Next stop was Aberdeen, on S. side of island. This is a fishing village and a lot of the residents are boat people -- their boat is their home. We took a sampan (floating taxi) tour around the area where these boats are located. What was a village is now the site of many high-rise apartments.

Last tour stop was a market -- mostly clothes, arts, and crafts. By this time it was dark and we were dragging -- not much in a shopping mood. Did get to hear a drum and bagpipe band march by, so Britannia still rules, so to speak.

So, that was our day in Hong Kong. It's truly an international city, so we don't feel yet that we're in China. Sad to say, after about six hours of touring, we were so beat we just dragged ourselves across the street to eat at Outback(!) There will be time for real adventures in dining later.