Ring of Kerry

Ireland’s most famous, or most popular drive – the Ring of Kerry -  loops around the Iveragh Peninsula on the west end of County Kerry.   Our Rick Steves guide advised that if you’re driving, leave early in the morning and drive clockwise because the tour buses, some of them on a long day trip from Dublin, drive counter-clockwise and are thickest later in the day.  Counter-clockwise also puts you in the oceanside lane from where the view is better and the scenic pull-offs (lay-bys) more convenient.   So, that was the start of our strategy.   However, in order not to make the day too long, we decided to drive to the end of the peninsula, then backtrack to Kenmare.  (I also have the feeling that this late in the summer, mid-week, the bus traffic should be light – and that’s the way it turned out – aren't we the clever travelers?)

[Incidentally, in case I haven't mentioned it, we found the Rich Steves guides to Ireland and to England to be the most useful.  He gives you opinions, not just PR. He prioritizes.  For example, he says there's not much to see at the Blarney Stone castle and why would you want to kiss a rock that is coated with other people's lipstick and spit.]

First stop on the Ring of Kerry was the town of Sneem.  Turned out to be a good place to get Susie some latte and some pastries for both of us.  Enjoyed it so much we did the same on our return trip.  Also bought a load of postcards to send home.  Here are some Sneemscenes.

Continuing along the coast we came across this beachfront Caravan Camp.  Eat your heart out, Tuzigoot.  Didn't look like full hook-ups to us, though.

The next stretch of road took us by what one sign proclaimed as the most popular photo-op on Ireland’s most popular road.  Here’s a shot from that area where we stopped where another couple had stopped and took each others' pictures. 

Also, Susie wanted a picture of these two contented cows nearby.

Got to the busy town of Waterville where we strolled a bit and found a restaurant overlooking the water.  Those are candles in this picture.  

This particular body of water is called Ballinskelligs Bay.  Across the bay is a village called Ballinskelligs and that is our day’s destination because I’ve been reading a book I found in our B and B’s lounge, titled Skelligsside.   The author, Michael Kirby, was born in Ballinskelligs in 1906 and lived there all his life – as a farmer, fisherman, and poet.   His book,  published in 1990, tells about his life, the Skelligside people, customs, and culture.   Made me want to go there and see the magic he felt.

In one section of the book he writes about an early-day poet, Eoghan Rua O’Suilleabhain, who was known as quite a ladies man.  He was also a teacher and the story goes that he took a fancy to the widowed mother of one of his students.  He asked the student to snip a lock of his mother’s hair while she slept and bring it to him.  That would help him win her affections.  The lad told his mother, Teacher wants a lock of your hair.  She clipped some hair from their dog – "a fierce dog of mongrel breed, with a golden-yellow coat” and sent that to school with her son.  Eoghan was sure that was a good sign.  As he approached the widow's house, Kirby says, “his heart was light with expectation as he neared the widow’s house, whistling and singing.  Alas!  If he had no story coming, he had one going away, for the fierce yellow dog tore the trousers off him, and the poet decided that a good run was better than a bad stand.”

So, after lunch, we branched off of the Ring of Kerry to drive over to Ballinskellig.  The village is fronted by a beach and out at water’s edge are the ruins of a castle. 

I took off my shoes and waded across the little creek between the shore and the castle.  Climbed  to the top, got some pictures.

We next proceeded on down the peninsula to essentially land’s end.

 Tthen we looped back to the Ring of Kerry and retraced our route as far as Sneem, for our second Sneembreak.  From there we took a back road through the peninsula’s high country.  Ireland’s tallest mountains are in this range.

Back in Kenmare, we topped off our day and our stay by going to one of the restaurants and pubs featuring traditional Irish music.  We heard Michael O’Brian, playing the small accordion and singing, accompanied by guitarist Sean O’Connor.  (Surely stage names, we said with some cynicism.)  They were very good – O’Brian really works that accordion and also sings a sweet heart-tugging Irish ballad.  Incidentally, have you ever wondered, who invented the accordion and why?  I bought an O'Brian CD, but after looking at the cover and listening to recording, it was apparent that it had been several years ago - before he developed his style.  You know how some Irish songs seem to go on forever.  Well, that's what this CD is like, song after song!

Tomorrow we begin a 2-day trip back to Dublin.  We'll be in touch.

Susie and Rob